Summary 7 - The island's peninsulas
Pubblicato sul blog di "Tre uomini in boat "on August 11 under the title" Promontori islanders "
Lunch on the movie set of Zorba the Greek, the beautiful white sand beach where it was the scene of sirtaki danced by Antony Queen.
We deserve it, seeing as we have Just past the cape of Akrotiri pronounced completely exposed to the wind just a day in which Mr. Meltemi decided to give us a taste of his power and blew over 50 mph in the direction opposite of course!
What for centuries has been the favorite refuge for monks and hermits, is now a civilian airport and military busy, but the peninsula is rich in limestone karst and has managed to maintain its appeal over time Wild rugged and inaccessible place. Beat
the field on the pebbly beach of a deep canyon that is accessed almost exclusively by sea or through a steep narrow road only by a few adventurous hikers: the 13 Greek boys who lit the fire between the oleanders bloom then offered us two tasty grilled pork chops ... courtesy between neighbors tent. Among
whitecaps that besides us forward we are also going up and down a lot, we reach the following day, the beautiful city of Hania, where the port has left us a bit 'confused because the entrance is partially blocked by a handful of reefs poorly signposted.
The city's history is curious and symbolic: the Saracens turned the churches into mosques, minarets and bell towers in two centuries later the Byzantines transformed back into churches, mosques and minarets steeples.
The result of this transformation of architecture, to span the centuries, yet with the Venetians and Turks, is a nice puzzle of styles and confessions in Hania has reached its peak: a church visible from the port that has preserved both a minaret a bell, perhaps unique example of peaceful religious coexistence. We really liked
Hania and parking under the ramparts of the lighthouse tall and slender with us ideally for the whole day long, slow and monotonous, easy transfer over low and the beaches filled with hotels, umbrellas and bathing in water as the pasta Mafalda!
Transfer needed to "attack" the two horns of the northwest coast of the island, the first high, rough and steep, with only two landing sites that compel us to force a lengthy journey in stages, on deep water rich in sponges and round long yellow walls decorated by the networks pulled from the sea and the rock hanging tapestries as postmodern, and the second most exhausted but equally rugged and rocky, a wide bay that we keep a safe distance because it's full of new homes and greenhouses on the beach behind reeds. The island of Crete
here opens up a corner of paradise: we arrived yesterday (Tuesday, 10 August) at the end of the world! Right on the part of the second
promontory overlooking two very beautiful islands, one called Agria (Wild), the other Imeri (grown), but both indicated on the cards as Gramvoussa, the smallest has been fortified by the Venetians and the castle on which hours stands a beautiful Greek flag was then used by the Turks as the last refuge of the Mediterranean pirates, who assaulted the 800 around the first so many ships that were soon subjected to a punitive expedition joint British and French ... with the proceeds of piracy The small community had increased to 6,000 people, including prisoners held in the caves ... now there are only rabbits in freedom diomedee night as big as lambs and kids screaming as their throats cut. The islanders
headlands us seduced and conquered, so far from tourist routes, and so comfortable for two lone sailors!
Posted the 11th of August on the "Three Men on the boat" blog:
We've Had lunch on the "Zorba the Greek" set, the beautiful white sand beach of The Sirtaki Queen danced by Antony. We have just overcome the pronounced Akrotiri peninsula, Completely Exposed to the Meltemi wind, blowing More Than 26 knots, Obviously Against us!
The Peninsula was a mountain refuge for monks and hermits for centuries, and it is today a civil and military airport, rich of calcareous phenomenas on the coast.
We've passed the night on the pebbles beach at the end of a depth canyon, which is entered only by sea or through an impervious path, crossed by few adventurous excursionists: the 13 Greek boys have offered then us two savoury steaks cooked on the fire.
The following day we've reached the beautiful town of Hania; its hoarbour has left us bit perplexed because the entry is partially obstructed by some not signalled rocks appearing on the surface of the sea. The history of the city is curious and symbolic: the Saracens have transformed the churches in the mosques and the bell towers in minarets, two centuries before the Byzantines have re-transformed the mosques in the churches and the minarets in the bell towers. The result of this architectural transformations, promoted for other centuries with the Venetians and the Turks, it is a pleasant puzzle of styles and confessions that in Hania has reached its apex: a central church visible from the harbour has still preserved both a minaret and a bell tower, perhaps the unique example in the world of a pacific religious cohabitation.
Weliked Hania a lot and the stop under the bastions of the tall and slender lighthouse ideally accompanies us for the day, long slow and monotonous day, a simple and necessary transfer "to attach" the two horns of the north western coast of the island: the first pensinsula is tall and steep, with just two safety points to unload that have forced us to complete the periplus in a no-stop day paddling, along a deep sea rich in green sponges and a rocky cliff decorated by yellow nets, torned by the sea and suspended on the rocks, like post-modern tapestries; the second peninsula is impervious as weel and over an ample bay the island of Crete is open on an angle of heaven: it seems to be arrived at the end of the world!
Just on the head of the second promontory two very beautiful islands they lean out on the sea, one called Agria (wild), the other Imeri (cultivated), on the maps both pointed as Gramvoussa; the smallest has been strengthened from the Venetians and the castle with the Greek flag it has been used as a cove by the last Mediterranean pirates: an incredible community of up to 6000 inhabitants is now represented by a free coomunity of rabbits, running around the kayaks at the sunset. The island
promontories Have Seduced us, so far from the tourist routs and so pleasant solitary for two kayakers!
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