posted on the blog of "Three Men in a Boat" September 2 with the title "South Coast": Here we are again in conjunction
!
You thought maybe we had been shipwrecked? Instead, only a shipwreck computer, some connection problems and no more ... Now that we have arrived safely in Heraklion, we still want to send messages that we had prepared during the trip for the boat here is the first, the other in the next days, allowing the Internet!
We had some problems with Internet connection and we can only send a new post today (August 22) that the Meltemi, the strong northwest wind that is fueling the fires in Greece, forcing us to land near a luxury resort in the pool and restaurant area with wi-fi under the patio.
The southwest coast of Crete we liked a lot: rocky, barren and not very populated
few villages and many beautiful beaches, many reachable only by boat, in which case, we are definitely an advantage, and even if we use the extra time than the tourist boats, we can then choose to continue or to camp for the night when everyone goes on. In Crete
wild camping is strictly forbidden but is generally not only tolerated but is also widely practiced by the Cretans themselves who, as true knowledgeable of their beautiful island, choose the most isolated coves and welcoming to have the tents in the shade of tamarisk. So we've been in
Sougia, where the long pebble beach is home to a dark true wild camping "organized", complete with fresh water shower (always hot water because the pipes are dark baking in the sun!).
In fact, all the beaches are always equipped with a shower and often taverns offer free sunbeds and umbrellas to customers.
Agia Roumeli, however, we made sure to land in the early afternoon we afford to take a hike in the famous Samaria Gorge, UNESCO for uniqueness and spectacle: the "Iron Gates", in the heart of the park, are just three meters wide and the stream flowing between rock walls up to 300 meters, the narrow passage is very suggestive of the path made of stones placed in the water far enough to facilitate hikers.
Loutro us a little 'disappointed the village of whitewashed houses and blue arranged in a half moon on the sheltered bay and impressive, why not let us land on the beach, very little to tell the truth, overflows with parasols and bathing, but in the cove a little further we make a memorable stop for lunch and see a sea turtle that lingers to browse among the reefs in the crystal. If tourism
held us back, free nature welcomes us!
The arrival in Matala is bubbly, we must land between the breaking waves and attracted the curiosity of some wetting, we wanted to visit the small fishing village atmosphere and hippies among the stalls of colorful ceramics and painted fabrics eat the pita giros "more good travel.
When we pass the extreme southern end of the island we have the impression that the sea will eat the earth, as the waves rise on the rocks sloping down the coast. Again, this could do to compete for the title of "lilliput-lighthouse!
The rest of the coast does not seem to exist: the guides do not mention it and the cards are not even almost scored coastal villages, not to mention the ports. A couple of days ago so we ended up in the "town that is not" a handful of houses clinging to the rocky coast by the name fairy, Tris Eklissis, with colorful murals on the balconies and even the dressing rooms of the beach facilities.
exiting the shelter provided by high mountains overlooking the coast, we stumbled in the Meltemi and today we are unfortunately still a Stop, an unnamed village in the south-east coast off the beaten foreign, whose only attraction seems to be the vast expanse of greenhouses.
We are two thirds of the trip, we paddled continuously for 20 days and soon the wind will allow him to resume the navigation tentare di completare il periplo negli ultimi 10 giorni rimasti.
Posted the 2nd of September on the "Three men on the boat" blog:
We're on line again! Do you think about a shipwreck? Just a computer shipwreck, some problems with the internet connection and nothing more. We're arrived in Iraklion in the meanwhile and we want to post the messages already prepared during the trip: here it is the first one, the others in the next days, internet permitting!
We have had some problems with the internet connection and we succeed in sending a new post today (the 22nd of August): the Meltemi, the strong wind of north west that is setting on fire Greece and Peloponnessus, forces us to land near a tourist villagewith a big luxury restaurant, swimming pool and wi-fi area.
We loved the south-western coast of Crete: few villages and so many beautiful beaches, many of them reachable only by the sea; in these beaches, we have a big privilege in comparison to the other tourists because we can choose to go away or to remain and camp.
Free camping in Crete is formally forbidden but it is generally practised.
So we sleep in Sougia, where the long beach of dark pebbles entertains a true free "organized" camping , with a sweet water shower (warm up by the sun!). In Crete, all the free beaches have a shower and the taverns usually offer free beach umbrellas and deckchairs.
We arrive in Agia Roumeli in the afternoon to have time for an excursion in the famous Samaria Gourges, Unesco patrimony for the "Iron doors", in the middle of the natural reserve, wide just three meters and tall up to 300 meters; the narrow passage is made extremely suggestive from the pathway in the water.
Loutro has bit disappointed us: the white and blue cottages on the half moon suggestive bay, doesn't allow us to land because the beach is too small; nevertheless, in another beach we have an unforgettable meeting with a big sea, appearing on the surface of the crystalline water.
The organized tourism rejects us, the free nature welcomes us!
The arrive in Matala is foamy: we must land in a surf zone and we attract the curiosity of some swimmers; we wanted to visit that small village with the hippy atmospheres and in the center, among colored ceramics, we eat the best "pita giros" of the trip.
When we pass the extreme southern head of the island we have the sensation that the sea wants to eat the land: the waves climb on the descending gradually rock coast. We meet a new "lilliput-lighthouse"! The rest of the coast seems to not exists: the touristic guides don't speak of it and the maps don't mark the villages and the harbours. A couple of days after we so land in the "country that doesn't exist": few houses to the rocky coast with a fantasy name, Three Eklissis, with colored murales on the balconies and a organized free beach.
When we meet the Meltemi we have to stop in Ferma, an anonymous village of the south-oriental coast out of the touristis rout: the only attraction seems to be the infinite greenhouses.
We uninterruptedly paddled for 20 days and as soon as the wind allows us, we will back the navigation to try to complete the periplus in the last 10 days.
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